K2WHINO’S GUIDE TO INTOXICATED TRADE SHOW FUNCTIONALITY, PART ONE (GET ON THE BUS)

Monday, the DEP’s crew and I (my assistant, Shannon, Ft. Thomas store manager, Matt, and Covington wine guy, Corey S.) went up to Columbus, Ohio for the Vanguard Trade Show, which was held at the Walter Center at St. Charles – oddly enough, a Catholic Prep school for boys. The venue was impressive, with what really appears to be a courtyard between four architecturally beautiful buildings that has been completely enclosed by glass. Any real wine geek would be ecstatic to be in the company of winemakers Jim Clendenden (Au Bon Climat, Ici/La-Bas, Clendenden Family), Pam Starr (Crocker & Starr), Markue Marbe (Caldwell), Carole Meredith (Lagier Meredith) and Charles Bieler (Bieler et Fils, Charles & Charles) just to name a few. In recent years, Vanguard has begun importing their own wines, specializing primarily in Italian. Having picked up one of my favorite Brunello producers – La Palazzetta, as well as great Piedmonte producers Gianfranco Alessandro and Mauro Veglio, Vanguard I believe is resembling the fine wine distributor of the future (along with other local distributors Cutting Edge, Vintner Select and Tramonte & Sons) – small and nimble, focused, and specializing in their own imported wines from around the world alongside well-known, established importers.

As with all trade shows, it usually means taking the day off, which is a big commitment from wine buyers like myself. Personally speaking, I usually don’t have enough time to stop and re-tie my shoe laces while I’m on the job, yet it’s important to pull one’s self away long enough to see what is going on in the world of wine. You have to in order to be good at what you do (though I don’t necessarily, wholeheartedly think I belong in that brethren).

Anyway, I wanted to break up my coverage in three parts, dealing first with my biggest love, Italian wines, followed by Vanguard’s American lineup, and finishing off with their French, Spanish and Portuguese wines.

While Shannon and Matt rode up together, Corey and I took the Vanguard Express, and started first with two Vanguard imports from Bricco del Sole. Owner/Winemaker Guilio Morando was on hand to pour his Chardonnay Langhe 2008 and Moscato d’Asti 2008, both affordably priced below $20. The Bricco del Sole Chardonnay Langhe 2008 (Grade=Outstanding) is a bright, light-to-medium-bodied, fruit-driven Chard with clean, crisp citrus notes and green apple. Lots of splashy mineral and tangerine make it a very refreshing version of a grape that usually bores me to death. The Bricco del Solo Moscato d’Asti 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) is a spritzed-up-peach-and-apricot cocktail with light floral notes and generously refreshing hints of peach nectar. It’s quite delicious.

Hitting the table of Gianfranco Alessandrio, helmed by owner/assistant winemaker Vittoria Alessandria, we were treated to some early tastes of the September releases of their Dolcetto d’Alba 2009 and Barbera d’Alba 2009, both of which were big hits amongst the crew and I. The G. Alessandria Dolcetto d’Alba 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) was a soft, supple presentation of cherry and red berry fruit aromas and flavors, splashes of wet stone and dried herbs, and a bit of cinnamon and black cherry finishing things up. The G. Alessandro Barbera d’Alba 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) is dark cherry, plum and red raspberry with touches of mineral, nutmeg and cola. Jumping into the big guns (and what we wine geeks morosely refer to as molestation), the G. Alessandro Barolo DOCG 2005 (Grade=Amazing) is an extreme value in this often-expensive appellation, with its notes of black truffles, dark chocolate, espresso and violets. It shows great promise and would be an awesome introduction to Barolo, historically called the Wine of Kings. The G. Alessandro Barolo San Giovanni 2005 (Grade=Amazing) is a delicious, single-vineyard Nebbiolo that shows the potential of both power and elegance with its veiled notes of cocoa bean, rose petals, truffles, blackberry compote, and baking chocolate. Again, we would say this wine is being molested, in that it needs some time to mature before real enjoyment, yet it still shows wonderfully right now.

A real treat was getting to try the wines of Mauro Veglio, certainly one of the most underappreciated Piedmonte producers out there. Owner/Assistant Winemaker Daniela Veglio showed off not 1 or 2 or 3, but 4 incredible Barolos, as well as the September releases of the Dolcetto d’Alba 2009, Barbera d’Alba 2009, and also the current vintage of the Nebbiolo di Langhe “Angelo”.

The Mauro Veglio Dolcetto d’Alba 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) is a medium-bodied, juicy red fruit presentation with splashy raspberry and pomegranate notes, some white pepper and cinnamon, a bit of baked earth and white truffle character, and some nice acidity to balance it all. The Mauro Veglio Barbera d’Alba 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) highlighted some nice mulberry, sour cherry and vanilla bean characters with hints of plums and mineral, and well-balanced acidity. The Mauro Veglio Nebbiolo di Langhe “Angelo” 2007 (Grade=Outstanding) is a good glimpse at Nebbiolo in its youth, brash, unyielding and wild, with its notes of black currant, black truffle, tar and hickory. Its bold tannins lend to its earthy quality, though it fleshes out nice and smooth at the finish.

There were four single-vineyard Barolos in the lineup as well (and as a cautionary aside, these too fell into the molestation category): The Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arborina 2005 (Grade=Amazing) showed lots of red and black raspberries, rose petals and hints of cinnamon and cardamom. Its feminine style gives it a profound elegance and depth. It is truly stunning. The Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2005 (Grade=Amazing) shows a bit more rich and multilayered dark berry fruits and hints of truffle oil, hickory smoke and baked earth. It has notes of baked chocolate and fresh espresso bean mixed in with tobacco and chocolate covered raisins. The Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Gattera 2005 (Grade=Amazing) yielded more masculine notes of black currant, dark plum and black cherry notes intermingled with tar and truffle and more savory spices. Its youthfulness doesn’t veil its promise; it should become ethereal, even as it shows beautifully now. The Mauro Veglio Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata 2005 (Grade=Amazing) is majestic with its elegant violet and rose petal aromas and its plum jam, black raspberry coulis and black truffle flavors. It’s tarry, with weighty tannins that resonate on the palate. This needs some time to flesh out and become more velvety and decadent, but still shows its potential in the glass right now. In this case, patience is a virtue and its own ultimate reward.

Stumbling onto this new producer at the show, I tried the wines of Marco Cecchini, owner/winemaker of his eponymous winery, which resides in the northern province of Friuli. The d’Orsaria Pinot Grigio IGT 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) is a pleasant surprise amidst the sea of insipid versions of the grape. Here you get some light and refreshing lemon, sour apple, and mineral notes in a light-bodied presentation that would make for a great summer quaff. The Marco Cecchini Tové Friuli 2009 (Grade=Outstanding+) is a blend of 90% Tocai and 10% Verduzzo, showing a spicy, weighty character that is long on tropical fruits, Chinese Five Spice, and mineral. Has some fleshy pineapple and Mandarin orange notes and a bit of blanched almonds as well. Very cool, medium-bodied white wine. The Marco Cecchini Refosco Friuli 2007 (Grade=Outstanding) is 100% Refosco, a lighter-style red that has some hints of white pepper amidst all the blueberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, as well as red flower, ginger and pink grapefruit mixed in. It could fair well with a slight chill, making it a great summertime red. The Marco Cecchini Picolit Friuli 2007 (Grade=Amazing) is a rare, dessert wine from this region made from 100% Picolit in a sweet-style, late-harvested to give you some caramel-tinged notes of crème brulee, toffee, maple nut, orange zest and baked apple. My new favorite dessert wine.

Venturing into sheer sexiness as always were the wines of Tenuta di Trinoro. Elena Capobianco, the U.S. Sales Manager was pouring three of their amazing wines. The Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana 2006 (Grade=Amazing) was a bit lighter than its 2005 counterpart, from what I remember, yet still accentuated its Bordeaux varieties well (47% Cab Franc, 30% Cab, 13.5% Merlot and 9.5% Petit Verdot). Blackberries, black currants and dark cherries abound with its velvety, pillowy tannins and its dark chocolate crescendo at the finish. Incredible! The Tenuta di Trinoro Rosso Toscana 2006 (Grade=Amazing) was a real treat (not many distributors have the cajones to break out a $350 bottle to sample) with its magnificent display of black fruits, toasted oak, nutmeg, vanilla bean, mocha espresso, tar and mint leaf notes, its powerful yet plush tannins and its seemingly infinite finish. 40% Merlot, 35% Cab Franc, 15% Cab and 6% Petite Verdot create a wine rivaling those of Pomerol or St.-Emilion. And for all you Wine Century Club members, the Passopisciaro Sicilia 2007 (Grade=Amazing) is one of Trinoro winemaker Andrea Franchetti’s forays into this surging Italian wine region with a 100% Nerello Mascalese, a grape native to Sicily and nowhere else. You’d almost swear this was a Premier cru red Burgundy with its bright cherry, cola nut, and baking spice notes and hints of mineral, earth and roasted hazelnuts. It has a velvety mouthfeel and a luxurious finish.

Tomorrow, I’ll have my notes on some of Vanguard’s California, Washington and Oregon wines.