DR. GONZO’S SURREPTITIOUS INFILTRATION (THE DEGENERATION OF THE SOUTH BANK)

Our resident SWS-Crown division madman and good friend Dr. Gonzo dropped in last week with local Palm Bay sales guy Tommy for a flight of upper tier Spanish, Italian and Chilean wines:

Faustino I Rioja Gran Reserva 1996. Grade=Outstanding. Faustino should be regarded as something of a historian, keeping true to the traditional style of Rioja. This dusty, earthy Tempranillo-driven blend shows off loads of dried cherries and red berries, along with hints of cedar, hickory, leather, cigar box, sandalwood and dried herbs. Really nice balance.

Rocca della Macie Chianti Classico Riserva 2006. Grade=Outstanding. I reviewed the 2005 not too long ago, and this one was equally as stunning with black cherry, pomegranate, dark plum, cedar and anise notes. Well-balanced and generous in the finish.

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2004. Grade=Outstanding. While this wine is lean, with its dried cherry and plum notes and its mineral/cedar character, the real allure is the price; it’s hard to find a Brunello we can sell for under $40. It has nice depth and complexity, but isn’t in common with many of the more “New World-inspired” Brunello houses with which Spectator and Parker are in love. Good, solid, classic style.

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla Real 2007. Grade=Amazing. Despite its slight bell pepper bent, this full-bodied Cab shows off muscular red and black fruits, baking spice, chocolate and mint notes, with supple tannins and good grip on the palate.

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Casa Real 2005. Grade=Amazing. Rich, opulent notes of blackberry, black currant, licorice, tar, mocha, tobacco and cedar with underpinnings of white pepper, mineral and baking spices. The wine melds together Old World structure with New World prowess. Delicious!

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella 2001. Grade=Outstanding-. Bertani (like Faustino) is something of a traditionalist, and this Amarone, though something of a disappointment for some, is a well-made, earthy expression of the style, with its notes of candied prunes, dusty earth, dried herbs and sweet spices. There are some underpinnings of blue and black berry fruits and espresso bean, yet the expectation for finishing a bit jammier fall short, with the finale being quite dry.