THE EARTH’S MIGHTY REGIFTER (FOUR FROM BONNY DOON’S WARRIOR POET, RANDALL GRAHM)

The other day, as the silly season requires I spend less time with my sales reps and more time a slave to the grind (cue the Skid Row song), my sampling takes place in the safety of mi casa loca de gato de suburbian, and this week I partook of 4 of the wines of Bonny Doon.

Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare Central Coast 2009. Grade=Outstanding+. A blend of Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Cinsault, this gracefully stunning rosé is reminiscent of a Côtes de Provence Rosé, with its light wild strawberry and white cherry notes, hints of some freshly squeezed blood oranges (cue the Dexter opening sequence), white flowers and mineral. The finish is dry and elegant. Definitely a benchmark for American rosé.

Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc Arroyo Seco 2007. Grade=Outstanding+. Like a white Chateauneuf du Pape, this Roussanne and Grenache Blanc blend is accentuated with notes of beeswax, pineapple, Asian pear, slight lavender and honeysuckle, and kumquat undertones. It is viscous on the palate, with a hint of chalky stone fruit at the finish. Round and dynamic, it’s pretty, luscious, and exuberant.

Bonny Doon Contra Red Blend Central Coast 2009. Grade=Outstanding. This hodge-podge blend of Carignane, Grenache Noir, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Syrah shows off very lively red and black fruit aromas and flavors, characteristics of wild blackberry, black raspberry, dark cherries, some white pepper, wet stones, nutmeg (it’s what the kids are smokin’ these days), cassis, violet and mulberry jam. Finishes slightly dry with a touch of sweet baking spice.

Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant California 2006. Grade=Amazing. An incredible example of how American winemakers can make a Chateauneuf du Pape-styled red right here, this Syrah, Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Mourvedre blend is a behemoth, full of cherry compote, dried rosemary and sage, pomegranate, root beer, fresh-baked rhubarb pie, loganberry, white and black pepper, white truffle and roasted game. Though it was a bit timid at first, after the second day, it was still youthful and animated. Has a lot of time to grow up and be even more amazing.