Our good friend/DEP’s alum/Tramonte rep, Devon came by with six terrific wines:
Hewitson Lu Lu Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Really nice, almost creamy style of SB with lemon meringue, Key Lime Pie and gooseberry jam. Finishes with nice acidity and a rounded edge.
Il Campo White Wine Central Coast 2009. Grade=Outstanding. This blend of Malvasia and Chardonnay makes for a glassful of apricots, peaches and d’Anjou pears, with a splash of vanilla and nutmeg and just a touch of wet stones. Really nice!
Hewitson Shiraz/Grenache/Cinsault Miss Harry 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Loads of red and black raspberries, olive tapenade, and rhubarb pie come together for a medium-bodied, plush red that would make for a great wine for barbeque.
Hewitson Shiraz Ned & Harry’s 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Juicy, jammy blue and red fruit aromas and flavors, hints of white pepper, cayenne, dried herbs, milk chocolate and cinnamon. Medium-bodied, with a jammy, splashy red fruit finish.
Il Campo Red Wine Central Coast 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Sangiovese and Merlot come together for an all-out black cherry pie with vanilla cream assault. Some hints of red currant, cassis, mint and smoky oak finish out this very nice surprise.
Giornata Sangiovese Paso Robles 2006. Grade=Outstanding+. This could be passed off as a Brunello and I don’t think too many folks would be the wiser. Full-bodied, opulent notes of dark cherries, blackberries, tar, coffee, cedar and dried herbs. Still quite youthful and could do with more time in the bottle.
Our good friend/DEP’s alum/RNDC-Cumberland rep Jen came by Thursday with a dozen wines from Raymond, a winery undergoing a renaissance thanks to their new partners, Boisset America. Raymond has always been a great producer, but their prices have never been right. Looks like times are changing:
Raymond Chardonnay R Collection 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Medium-bodied with lots of lively Clementine, apricot, tangerine and lime notes, a hint of juicy apples, and finishing up with creamy vanilla and spice.
Raymond Chardonnay Reserve Napa Valley 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Floral and notes of citrus in the nose are followed by tropical fruit and stone fruit notes, some toasted nuts and creamy vanilla, honey, and spicy oak. Bordering on a lush full-bodied Chard, yet exercising the kind of restraint I like.
Raymond Merlot R Collection 2006. Grade=Outstanding. Very juicy, cherry cola notes with some red plums, licorice, dried herbs and vanillin oak. A splashy, juicy red for the money.
Raymond Field Blend R Collection 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Primarily fueled by Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, this medium-bodied, juicy red shows off red and black fruits, some peppery spices, and smooth tannins with hints of cherry cream pie.
Raymond Merlot Reserve Napa Valley 2006. Grade=Outstanding. Lots of juicy red berries, mocha, pepper, coffee and chocolate with hints of vanillin oak. Has nice weight on the palate and good balance throughout.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon R Collection 2006. Grade=Outstanding-. Hoping for a bit more because this isn’t line priced with the rest of the R Collection, this is mediocre in its QPR, yet still possessing nice black fruits, baking spice and smooth tannins.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley 2006. Grade=Outstanding-. Tempered with 5% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this again disappoints per QPR. Some nice notes of blackberries and blueberries, some roasted herbs, hints of dark chocolate and cedar, but for the price, there is a lot of competition.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Family Classic 2008. Grade=Outstanding-. A brand new release, strike three on the QPR, yielding a medium-to-full-bodied Cab that has some pleasant tannins, medium weight, blackberry and black currant flavors and some undertones of chocolate and spice.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Sommelier Selection 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Now we are getting somewhere… jammy, juicy black and red berry fruit aromas and flavors, mint, pepper, cassis, leather, cedar, tar and chocolate – it’s a lovely bolder style of Cab you come to expect from Raymond.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2005. Grade=Outstanding+. Big, voluptuous, tempting notes of black currant, black cherry, blackberry, blueberry, plum and loganberry with hints of white and black pepper, vanilla and nutmeg, dark roast coffee, new leather and baked earth. The finish is long and enveloping.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2005. Grade=Outstanding. At times it is both richer and more youthful than the St. Helena, with big, jammy black fruit character, lots of spices, tobacco leaf, mineral, mocha powder, espresso bean, chocolate ganache, creamy oak and black cherries.
Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Generations 2005. Grade=Amazing. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon strutting its stuff in all its decadent bravado with black, red, blue and purple fruit aromas and flavors, a trip through the spice rack, roasted herbs, bitter chocolate, espresso bean, tar, dust, and smoky cedar. Should have a long time worth of aging, but decanted, would make for a ridiculously extravagant treat.
Yesterday, our good friend and Vintner Select rep Brian came by with Mike Gwin from Tarrica Wine Cellars of Paso Robles. I had mentioned Tarrica before earlier this year, and loved them so much at the time that we named them wines of the month for the store for April. We ran through the gamut of their wines, along with two of their dessert wines:
Tarrica Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Here is a nice, light-bodied, slightly-round SB with some lemon and lime notes, hints of flint and slate, thyme, cilantro and a touch of fresh cut grass. The acidity is well-balanced and the finish is clean and refreshing.
Tarrica Pinot Gris Paso Robles 2009. Grade=Outstanding. I really like this PG, with its honeydew melon, kiwi and wet stone. Light-bodied, crisp with well-balanced acidity and a round, stone fruit finish.
Tarrica Chardonnay Paso Robles 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Tank-fermented and aged sur lie in French oak give this medium-bodied white some surprising freshness. Nectarine, lime, ripe peach and Mandarin orange flavors with a touch of baking spice and toasted oak.
Tarrica Gewurtztraminer Central Coast 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Much cleaner and less cloying than many of its California peers, this light-styled Gewurtz shows off slight notes of nutmeg, white pepper, lychee nut and apricot notes and finishes up with slight mineral and spice overtones.
Tarrica Pinot Noir Monterey 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Looks like Pinot Noir, and tastes like Pinot Noir should – light-bodied with spicy cherry and red berry fruit, some cinnamon stick, white truffle, and cola flavors, finishing slightly earthy and lean. Very nice.
Vino Primo Sangiovese Paso Robles 2009. Grade=Outstanding. I’ve said often that I am highly reluctant of “Cal-Ital” wines, yet this medium-bodied red stuns me with a soft, supple, juicy red with bright cherry and red raspberry notes, a bit of spice, and a smooth finish.
Tarrica Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Medium-to-full-bodied with some nice notes of black cherries, black currants, chocolate and espresso. The tannins are plush and the finish is juicy and long. A solid Cab.
Tarrica Petite Sirah Paso Robles 2007. Grade=Amazing. This is one dark mutha, with inky purple and black fruits, cherry cola, cinnamon and nutmeg, a bit of baked earth and some vanillin oak at the finish. Should come with a toothbrush for afterward.
Old Shandon Port Works Syrah Port Paso Robles NV. Grade=Amazing. I am still a sucker for dessert wines and fortifieds due largely to my rusting libido, but this gorgeous port gives you truckloads of caramel, toffee, milk chocolate, roasted hazelnuts, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cocoa beans. Should come with a cigarette for afterward.
KODA Dessert Wine California NV. Grade=FN Amazing. All I have to say is “Holy Shit, this is delicious!” Like being a sex slave test dummy for a Christina Hendricks (if you are into guys, please insert your favorite sexy Hollywood beau-hunk here, forgive the pun) cloning facility. Chocolate covered cherries, flourless chocolate torte smothered in a black raspberry coulis, wrapped up in vanilla crème fraiche and sprinkled with shaved dark chocolate espresso ganache. Should come with a pillow, a blanket and inflatable mattress for afterward.
In drive-by fashion, our very own Amazonian wine sprite, Jesse (of SWS/Starz), dropped in with a couple of Italian (wines):
Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio Collio 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Lean, austere, with a burst of lemon zest, some light minerality, a bit of cucumber (yeah I said it) and a steely, dry finish. Nice.
Borgo Conventi Chardonnay Collio 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Really dry presentation of Chardonnay, with tart green apples, a bit of lime and nectarine, chalky minerals, and well-balanced acidity. A very different kinda Chard.
Dr. Gonzo (aka Ray from SWS/Crown) dropped in on Shannon and I today with a fistful of Frenchies:
Simonnet Febvre Brut Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc NV. Grade=Outstanding. Nice effervescence amidst hints of fresh apples, pears, mineral and slight lemon mousse. Finishes quite dry.
Simonnet Febvre Brut Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé NV. Grade=Outstanding. Light notes of strawberries, cranberries and watermelon float amongst sparkling lemon ginger and hints of mineral and toast. Very pretty.
Simonnet Febvre Chablis AOC 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Definitely the standard chalky, steely stone fruit, yet Shannon stumbled upon some dry mustard characteristics that make this a very unique white.
Louis Latour Macon-Lugny AOC 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Slight creamy tones entwined amongst notes of crisp green apples, Bartlett pears, lemon zest, dried herbs and wet stone. Very nice.
Louis Latour Viré-Clessé AOC 2006. Grade=Outstanding. This had a strange aftertaste; up-front notes of pears, nectarines and lime, with just a touch of apple tartlet, there was this almost aside of pear nectar that made you think you would drinking two different wines at the same time. A very odd effect that I think I liked.
Jean-Luc Colombo Cotes-du-Rhone Les Abeilles Blanc 2008. Grade=Outstanding. White Rhone blend with some sparse notes of honeysuckle, orange blossom, peach and apricot, with hints of slate and various white flowers as well. Light-bodied, well-balanced, definitely needs food.
Jean-Luc Colombo Cote-Bleue Rosé 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Beautiful strawberry notes abound in this soft, serene and dry blush that shows off lean acidity, bright red berry fruits, and light mineral notes.
Jean-Luc Colombo Cotes-du-Rhone Les Abeilles Rouge 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Primarily Syrah, this is a juicier, full-bodied CDR than most of its brethren, with some white pepper, roasted herbs, dark red and purple berries, some baking spices and hints of black truffle.
Louis Latour Marsannay Rouge AOC 2006. Grade=Outstanding. Lean and sultry with light red berry fruits, notes of cola, cinnamon, cardamom, earth and leather notes.
Louis Latour Santenay Rouge AOC 2006. Grade=Outstanding. Very earthy and dry with splashes of mineral, earth, black cherries, pomegranates and toasted nuts.
Our good friend Lou from RNDC/Barkley came by with a revisit to a faithful ol’ value brand:
Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio California 2008. Grade=Average. An okay PG with some lemon zest, wet mineral and slight herbs. Light and decent.
Gnarly Head Chardonnay California 2009. Grade=Outstanding. A pretty good tropical-fruit style Chardonnay with light-bodied presence on the palate and good balance of acidity.
Gnarly Head Pinot Noir California 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A surprisingly good PN for the money; shows off lots of cherry cola, cinnamon, paprika and dusty earth tones.
Gnarly Head Zinfandel Old Vine 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A juicy, jammy, fruit-driven Zin with notes of black and blue fruits, some peppery spice and solid presence all the way through to the finish.
Gnarly Head Merlot California 2008. Grade=Average. A nice quaff, showing some red plum and black cherries, with a bit of baking spice and light cocoa.
Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Smooth, medium-bodied, easy-on-the-palate, with some decent black fruits, light spices, light chocolate and light-roasted coffee beans.
BROWN BAG SPECIAL. Bota Box Riesling California 2008 3L. Grade=Outstanding. Always testing our mettle, Lou poured this from box to bottle to show off the fact this is a semi-dry, light-bodied Riesling with some lime zest, golden cherries, apricots and white peaches. Very nice.
I have a monumental confession to make: I am a low-budget foodie. What the hell does that mean? Well, it means that I am not opposed to eating a hot dog, Hamburger Helper, or a good ol’ fashioned meat loaf dish in lieu of Chateaubriand or Pork Wellington. I am not – and doubt I will ever be – a member of the Fortune 500 club so dining on some Kielbasa and Sauerkraut or cooking my wife’s Tuna Noodle Casserole is more standard fare at my house.
So what wines do I pair with these modest meals? Does it really matter? I am a firm believer in “drink what you like.” It’s not that I don’t relish a Muscadet with oysters on the half shell, or sweet breads and Sauternes, it’s just that if I want to drink a particular wine, like for instance, a Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, no big slab of dead animal flesh is gonna stand in my way.
My background in food and wine has been interesting to say the list. I wasn’t introduced to anything remotely gourmet until well into my twenties, after I’d left home. Growing up, my mom worked second shift and Dad travelled a lot so we usually had Arby’s Roast Beef sandwiches, hamburgers from the late great Burger Chef (Kangaroo meat, anyone?) or Cassano’s pizza (the saltiest pizza you could ever have). Hot Dogs or Campbell’s condensed soups were a treat – it was whatever my sister and I could get for ourselves. The first time I ever had spinach, my dad cooked it for me – if that is what you would call it. He boiled it so that it was a grey, soggy mess when he was done. No salt, no pepper. It tasted like the algae I’d swallow whenever I dove into Grandma’s pond with my mouth open as a kid.
Later in life, working in various restaurants (from the aforementioned Cassano’s and Arby’s) to some pretty nice places with exceptional chefs, I got to see the culinary arts in all its glory. So in my cooking at home, I try to incorporate what I’ve picked up here-and-there, in the hope that I can please but one person, my wife. Believe me when I say I would never end up on one of those cooking competition shows like Master Chef or whatever – I spent a long time in the restaurant business and it wore me down to a nub. I cook at home because I like it.
One of my wife’s favorite things for dinner is something called Chicken Oregano, which is simply chicken, potatoes, tomatoes, herbs, all slathered in olive oil and baked for an hour. You slice the potatoes and tomatoes thinly and layer them like a lasagna, seasoning and oiling as you go, and then top with some chicken breast and bake at 400 degrees for roughly one hour. It’s simple, and it’s pretty good. I usually end up making enough for her to have leftovers through the week. I do most of the cooking at home, though we tend to have these take-out spells, due largely to my busy workload. I don’t mind cooking, but trying to go all 4-star-Michelin even one night a week is almost too much to ask.
I am a bit envious of the folks who can get all fancy-gourmet every night, but my wife and I are alright with dinner from a box/bag/can. Usually, I can spruce them up and make them taste pretty good, and I am thankful my wife is fairly easy to please (though she HATES onions, and water chestnuts, and isn’t a fan of the really light fishes).
Reading the recent article in the September 30th issue of Wine Spectator entitled “The Art & Science of Matching Wine & Food,” I was reminded of comments made recently regarding Lettie Teague’s recent article in the Wall Street Journal about holding wine glasses properly, that wine writers aren’t doing enough to demystify wine drinking for the masses. It is as if they (the wine writers) secretly wish to keep the joy of it to themselves and the elite few. Most wine consumers don’t have the luxury of planning elaborate meals, and thereby shy away from most wines that may or may not be complimentary to their menus, opting for superplonk that serves only to wash the food down their gullets quickly.
I am one of those people who have spent years trying to break down the stereotypes and dispel all the myths that wine is an elitist endeavor, only to have wine writers like Harvey Steiman and Lettie Teague – whether intentional or not – build those stereotypes right back up. Oh well, my work is never done.
Our good friend/new Vintner Select sales manager, Jeff, dropped in to show off some cool new stuff from their ever-expanding portfolio:
Gruet Blanc de Blancs Sauvage NV. Grade=Outstanding. Holy cow is this one dry sparkler! Felt my teeth recess as I was tasting this, and all the water in my body began a quiet, clandestine exodus. This is ultra-dry with mouthwatering lemon zest, crisp Granny smith apples, hints of chalk, flint and lime. Would be amazing with chilled oysters on the half shell.
Huber Gruner Veltliner “Hugo” 2009. Grade=Outstanding. My favorite Gruner has made its way to VS! Fresh, dry, clean – with some racy lime, white pepper, and mineral characters. A delicious white wine to go comfortably with sushi.
Huber Gruner Veltliner Traisental D.A.C. 2009. Grade=Outstanding. This gorgeous single-vineyard GV is a small-production Austrian white that shows off zesty lemon and lime notes, some black and white pepper, and chalky mineral. Bracing acidity adds character.
Huber Gruner Veltliner “Obere Steigen” 2009. Grade=Outstanding. The more robust and brawnier GV from Huber, this one demonstrates some oily swagger alongside super ripe lime, blanched almonds, cracked black pepper, slight Mandarin orange, and wet stones.
Huber Riesling Traisental D.A.C. 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Lime, Rainier cherries, chalk, sea salt, and mineral tones flesh out in this light-to-medium-bodied, dry-style Riesling. Beautiful.
Clava Chardonnay Casablanca Valley 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Some fresh peaches and pineapple with a bit of cantaloupe and honeydew as well as lemon meringue and nectarine notes. Crisp and racy acidity leads you into a tropical fruit salad finish.
Clava Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley 2009. Grade=Outstanding. Dark cherries, plums, cherry cola and some dusty earth lend to a light-bodied, fruity, terroir-driven red.
Huber Zweigelt D.A.C. 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Drinks like a cross between a Russian River Pinot Noir and a Barossa Valley Shiraz, this medium-bodied red exudes spicy notes of black pepper, cayenne, raspberry, blueberry and mulberry fruit, some mineral, white truffle and habanero pepper. Finishes with a juicy core of red plum and red currants.
Our good friend and RNDC/Barkley rep Lou came by with a lineup of really solid values from California:
Twisted Pinot Grigio California 2008 (1.5 liter). Grade=Average. Yes, yes, yes, the bias is coming out again. This is a nice, simplistic, straightforward PG with some lemongrass and ripe pear notes. Light, nice acidity, and we’re out.
Twisted Chardonnay California 2008. Grade=Average. Decent light-bodied Chardonnay with a lot of tropical fruit splashing about in the glass. A hint of malolactic bounces around in there somewhere, ad it finishes with some nice acidity.
Twisted Zinfandel Old Vine Lodi 2008. Grade=Outstanding. The star of the show, this medium-bodied red has some nice spicy fruit qualities, red raspberry jam, and a hint of black pepper. Very good.
Twisted Merlot California 2007. Grade=Average. An okay Merlot with medium-bodied cherry and plum notes. Juicy in the middle, simple on the finish.
Twisted Cabernet Sauvignon California 2007. Grade=Average. Not much in body, it’s a solid, medium-bodied quaff that would be great for parties to throw back with reckless abandon.
Our good friend/Cutting Edge rep Lauren came by with some great little treasures, as well as offering up some Spanish closeouts:
Cellers Can Blau Can Blau Montsant 2008. Grade=Amazing. This delicious red is rich and complex, with a lot of black currant, blueberry, loganberry, spice box, and dark chocolate notes. It is medium-to-full-bodied, with plush tannins and hints of dried currants, cedar and baked earth. Stunning.
Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley 2007. Grade=Amazing. This dessert white shines with golden raisins, honeyed apricots, dates, and candied ginger notes. The finish on this wine is a monster, lingering on and on and on. Liquid ecstasy.
Quinta do Noval Noval Black NV. Grade=Amazing. This new, modern-spin on their classic Late-Bottled Vintage style is fashioned as a young Tawny, with sweet raisins, prunes, and hints of molasses, caramel, toffee, raspberry mocha, and chocolate-covered-cherries. Absolutely delicious!
(The closeouts were good, but I didn’t really want to write about them. Closeouts are really pass or fail, and these passed - actually they were pretty good, one in particular was exceptional. But I can’t find my notes on those - brainpan failure.)