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Yesterday, local wine guru/Vintner Select rep Gary Boswell came by with Bob Lynde, owner of a new line of wines called Fat Barrel from South Africa. I’ve known Gary for awhile, and trained under him (steer clear gutterheads) at the now defunct Pho Paris restaurant in Oakley (Cincinnati), one of Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel’s amazing restaurants that inevitably became Chalk Food+Wine here in Covington, KY.

Anyway, Bob hails from Oregon, and actually went to Denison University near Columbus, Ohio, and was one of the primary owners of Cape Classics (an American importer of South African wines such as Mulderbosch, Rustenberg and Raats Family) until 2005, when he sold his interest in the company to create wine brands with a focus on value and quality and would create philanthropic opportunities for local markets.

We tasted the four wines of his Fat Barrel line, a percentage of the sales he told me would go to a charity of Vintner Select’s choosing, which I was pleased to hear were going to Chef Jean-Robert’s Seven Days of SIDS charity:

Fat Barrel Sauvignon Blanc South Africa 2009. Grade=Outstanding. A soft, supple, well-rounded SB that shows off more Loire leanings than New Zealand, with lime, gooseberry and guava characters, nice minerality and a clean, refreshing finish.

Fat Barrel Chenin Blanc South Africa 2009. Grade=Outstanding+. A delicious, Loire-themed CB with honeydew melon, crème fraiche, d’Anjou pear, slight ginger and honeysuckle notes. More viscous in its mouthfeel, definitely a more medium-bodied CB. Very nice!

Fat Barrel Pinotage South Africa 2008. Grade=Outstanding+. Pinotage usually has people ducking for cover, but this one will definitely draw them back to the much-maligned and misunderstood cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known as Hermitage in South Africa). Raisiny red berries, dark plums, dark chocolate and notes of espresso, peat, tar and roasted meats.

Fat Barrel Cabernet/Shiraz South Africa 2008. Grade=Outstanding+. Very smooth, medium-bodied red blend with jammy red and black fruit aromas and flavors, baking spices, tobacco, some cedar and vanillin oak. A great value.

I was sold on the wine alone, but the benevolence of Bob and his company make this line of wines a no-brainer. Look for them soon.

Yesterday, we met with Lowell Land, owner of Acres of Land Winery, located in Richmond, KY (maybe an hours’ drive from here):

Acres of Land Kentucky Chardonnay 2008. Grade=Outstanding. I was pretty shocked at how good this was. Never really expect Chardonnay to taste like it would from California here in KY but this does. Well-balanced, with good presence of tropical fruit, light butter and caramel textures. Very nice.

Acres of Land A. I. Vidal Blanc 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A nice presentation of this popular local hybrid. Slightly sweet, with some honey, melon and pear notes.

Acres of Land Kentucky Vignoles 2008. Grade=Outstanding. I’ve not had a lot of Vignoles, yet from what I have had, this would be the best one. White flowers, honeydew and gooseberry jam with a bit of lively acidity and some hints of caramel and nutmeg.

Acres of Land Maggie Adams Blush NV. Grade=Outstanding. I was expecting sweet and got a lovely, dry blush with hints of strawberries, watermelon and traces of apricot. Pretty nice style.

Acres of Land Marie’s Merlot 2006. Grade=Average. The weakest link I hate to say, though they actually outsource the fruit from Georgia (who knew?). It’s fairly austere, with more mineral than fruit, yet some dark plum and black cherry notes peak through to its slightly tannic finish.

Acres of Land Colonel Ridge’s Cabernet Sauvignon NV. Grade=Average. A blend of the 2006 and 2007 vintages, this Cabernet is pretty drinkable, with soft black and red fruit aromas and flavors, some nice spices, and a touch of bitter chocolate.

Acres of Land Kentucky Chambourcin 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Another one of those “native” varietals, this semi-dry version (they also have a drier style) shows off soft, lively cherry and red berry notes, slightly “foxy” spice characters and a cinnamon/juice box finish.

Acres of Land Concord 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Concord wines always make me think of childhood, with the slightly legendary impetus for this blog’s name sake being the origin of my wine fanaticism. Grapey, with bright, juicy blue and “purple” berry notes and a soft, semi-sweet finish.

Acres of Land Willie Mae’s Blackberry NV (500 ml). Grade=Outstanding. A slightly-sweeter, more-dessert-oriented wine with lush, decadent fruit and a slight tinge of chocolate.

Our new guy on the block, Martin from Martin & Co. came by with two new additions to his portfolio:

Claudia Springs Pinot Noir Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley 2007. Grade=Outstanding+. This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, that both Shannon and I swore possessed a bit of Petite Sirah or something to beef it up. Really ripe and rich, with black cherry, cola and cardamom notes. Silky tannins add to the sexiness.

Claudia Springs Zinfandel Valenti Ranch, Mendocino Ridges 2006. Grade=Outstanding. 17.8% Alcohol, are you &@^king kidding me?! Actually, you don’t get the heat until the finish, where it gives you a flambéed raspberry quality after a monstrous wave of black cherry, dark chocolate, cracked black pepper, cinnamon stick and raspberry jam notes. A big bad ass of a Zin!

I’ve been getting a lot of emails concerning unsolicited story ideas for my blog. I am not sure how to really receive the notion that people think I am in anyway capable of using their ideas and PAYING THEM for said ideas. I certainly can’t use them and NOT PAY THEM, that would be pretty shitty of me. I guess these folks don’t really realize that I write this blog for my own benefit, with no financial rewards (technically), aside from the nominal check I get from the ads that run at the top and on the right side of the screen you are viewing. Believe me, I am not about to quit my job anytime soon with that revenue – it pays for the domain and that’s good enough for me.

On tap this week, the continuation of my Spanish primer, more tasting notes, and whatever else falls out of my nether regions. Until then, as my hero Christopher Walken says: “coleslaw for everyone!”

Our Heidelberg rep and favorite wine mama, Wendy+1 was back in Thursday afternoon with her long-time friend Jaime from the Sorting Table, a fairly new importer of wines from all over, and they were in to give us the business:

Russian Jack Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough 2009. Grade=Outstanding. A kinder, gentler version of NZ SB, with more melon and lemon meringue notes and more sublime acidity. I really like this style.

Substance Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009. Grade=Outstanding. A fantastic value from this brand new winery from – you guessed it – Washington State! Light-bodied with notes of apples, almonds and orange blossom. Finishes light and lively.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Blanc Alsace 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A well-made, light-to-medium-bodied white with Golden apples, d’Anjou pears and toasted brioche.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace 2008. Grade=Outstanding+. Incredible Alsatian PG with nice structure and complexity. Peaches and cream with some pear, honeysuckle and lemon curd notes.

HDV Chardonnay Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2007. Grade=Outstanding+. A big Titan of a Chardonnay with voluptuous notes of pear, apple, pineapple and apricot notes, creamy oak, ginger, caramel and butterscotch and touches of vanilla and nutmeg. Gorgeous!

Substance Syrah Columbia Valley 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A terrific example of just how Washington State gets Syrah right, this red shows off some blueberry compote, rhubarb and raspberry notes, with hints of mint and rosemary, and some black and white pepper leading up to a jammy, juicy finish.

Substance Merlot Columbia Valley 2008. Grade=Amazing. I reviewed this back in January, and it is still drinking well. I think it’s one of the best Merlots at this price point from Washington, or anywhere.

Colazzi I Bastioni Chianti Classico 2007. Grade=Amazing. Primarily Sangiovese with 20% Merlot and Syrah, this Super Tuscan styled CC is big, sexy and sensuous with full-bodied tannins, Baked Alaska, cinnamon, mocha and chocolate-covered cherries.

Waters Syrah Columbia Valley 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Fuller-bodied than the Substance, this “big brother” Syrah has considerable weight on the palate, which is mystified by its subtle notes of blackberry, raspberry and blueberry flavors, and its splashes of white pepper, dark chocolate and rosemary.

Waters Interlude Columbia Valley 2008. Grade=Amazing. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc come together to show off their Bordeaux influences and stretch out with abundant black and blue fruit aromas and flavors. Really nice!

HDV Belle Cousine Hyde Valley 2006. Grade=Amazing. Powerful, sexy Cab/Merlot blend, this red has tons of complex blackberry, chocolate truffle, cedar, tar, black currant, milk chocolate, coffee, and baked earth notes. Its tannins are silky and its presence on the palate, decadent.

Hesketh The Proposition Premium Cuvee NV. Grade=Outstanding. This groovy, semi-dry sparkler from Down Under is fun, light and refreshing with notes of strawberries, buttered brioche and ginger candy and Bing cherries.

Our Bryant rep and good friend Jimmy Carpenter came by Thursday with some really cool wines:

Three Winds Sauvignon Blanc VDP 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Crisp, tart, with loads of acidity, this white shows off nice lemon/lime, guava and gooseberry notes with a lively, racy finish.

Three Winds Chardonnay VDP 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Light-bodied Chard with lots of mineral, apple, pear, and nectarine notes. Nice balance of acidity.

The Ruins Chardonnay/Viognier Robertson 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Really creamy, yet with well-integrated acidity, this unique blend to South Africa shows off some nice stone fruit and tropical fruit aromas and flavors.

Three Winds Pinot Noir VDP 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A solid, fruit-driven Pinot Noir with bright cherry and strawberry notes, some earthiness, and hints of spice rack and cola.

Three Winds Syrah VDP 2008. Grade=Outstanding. A surprisingly good example of French Syrah that won’t break the bank. Red fruit aromas and flavors take hold with some hints of white pepper, black olives, and light mocha.

Bodegas LAN Rioja Crianza 2005. Grade=Outstanding. Gorgeous Tempranillo-driven red with medium-to-full-bodied tannins, and hints of cherries, blackberries, chocolate, coffee and toasty oak.

Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva 2004. Grade=Outstanding+. A beautifully-made Rioja with lots of body and supple tannins, bold flavors of blackberries, cherries, cocoa, smoky oak, vanilla bean and coffee.

Hedges Red Wine Red Mountain 2007. Grade=Amazing. Another sexy beast from WA, this Merlot-driven red reveals luxurious notes of dark chocolate, blackberry jam, black cherries, baking spices, mineral, cedar, tar, and vanillin oak. Really impressive.

Barista Pinotage South Africa 2008. Grade=Outstanding. The birth of something called “coffee Pinotage” this really tastes like the Dark Cherry Mocha drinks I was getting at Starbucks this past winter. Roasted espresso beans, black cherries, and dark chocolate, with creamy oak, blackberries and some baked earth – this will be your introduction to what Pinotage can be.

Part One of the Wendy+1 doubleheader on Thursday featured our favorite Wine Mama/Heidelberg rep Wendy and her guest, Peter Carp from Orbis Wines:

F. Martenot Macon-Villages Grad Pres 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Light-bodied with some Granny Smith apple, ripe pear, hints of key lime, mineral and toasted brioche. Very nice white Maconnais.

F. Martenot Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssier 2008. Grade=Outstanding. Richer, more complex than its sibling, this luscious white shows off creamy pear and apple notes, wet stones, and slight nut and honey characters.

Domaine du Haut Ponche Moulin-á-Vent Haut Ponice 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Light-bodied, slightly rustic, with tart cherry and red raspberry notes, and hints of roasted nuts and nutmeg. A value for cru Beaujolais.

F. Martenot Haut Cotes du Nuit Pre Royal 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Stunning Pinot Noir with soft cherry, cola, strawberry and pomegranate notes, some toasted hazelnuts, cinnamon, cocoa powder and red tea.

Paul Missot Chambolle-Musigny 1999. Grade=Amazing. Remarkable how this has aged! Missot releases his wines only when ready – not before, and the patience reveals a well-structured, sublime display of dark cherry and red berry fruit aromas and flavors, notes of cinnamon and nutmeg, cola nut, balck truffles, dark plums and rich earth.

Chateau d’Aiguilhon Cotes-du-Rhone 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Soft and supple Grenache-dominant red blend, with some zesty pepper, blackberry, cranberry, rosemary and roasted game. Medium-bodied with a juicy red fruit finish.

Chateau Ste. Elisabeth Costieres-de-Nimes 2007. Grade=Outstanding. Predominantly Grenache, this red blend has a bit more jammy quality than the CDR, with some riper, richer aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, baking spices, tar, roasted herbs and game, and mineral. An incredible value!

Two things really blew my mind today. The first was hearing that James Suckling has left Wine Spectator. I’ve not really been a fan of his Italian beat – his tastes were a bit too “New World” for me (being an Italian wine purist and all) – but his influence on the world of wine has been huge, overshadowed only by Robert Parker. Mr. Suckling could make or break you in Bordeaux – his big scores meant millions of additional dollars in sales for the chateaux that showed well each vintage. He was a wine critic who lived (and lives) like a rock star, with a jet-setting, glitzy lifestyle that made him larger than life in the eyes of many of us wine peon. The announcement from the magazine comes with such lackluster that even I – an unfan – finds it a bit disrespectful. Maybe Mr. Suckling wished to go out quietly, but judging from the HUGE response of his fans on the Spectator message boards, the magazine should have handled it with a bit more reverence.

The second thing was that, through Vinography’s latest post, I found out that the National Beer Wholesalers Association has concocted a grossly deceptive and profoundly disturbing web site – HR5034.org. If you ever wanted to find the IP address for internet bullshit, look no further. This is serious protectionism at its best. For all you capitalists out there, this is the Anti-Capitalist destination. This is where the entrepreneurial spirit of America has gone to die. Read it for yourself. And if you like to buy the wine and spirits and beer that you want to buy – contact your congressperson and have them kill this bill dead, once and for all.

On top of those two tidbits, I spoke yesterday to one of my sales reps about the current financial mess being experienced by Dan Philips and Grateful Palate Imports - home to Marquis Philips, R Wines, Greenock Creek, Trevor Jones and others. According to the article in Wine Spectator online, Dan’s company is in receivership and teetering on the brink of bancruptcy. At stake are the livelihoods of dozens of grape growers, producers, and hundreds of employees at the various wineries and the importer itself. Currently, while Dan works with his bank to restructure his debt, it is business as usual, according to my sales rep. Unfortunately this is one of those wait-and-see moments. I wish Dan the best in sorting this mess out.

Thursday, our RNDC/Cumberland rep (and my first true protégé) Jen, came by with old friend, winemaker Michael Honig. I’ve known Michael for a long time, and having him stop by is like seeing faraway family dropping in. We caught up on things, acclimated Michael to the burgeoning presence of the Depenbrock family around here and tasted through three of his wines:

Honig Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2009. Grade=Outstanding. I would venture to say this is one of the best Napa SBs in the $10-$20 price range, bar none. Crisp, light-bodied, with fresh Meyer lemon, key lime, fresh cut grass, guava and just a touch of mineral. Our unofficial house Sauvignon Blanc.

Honig Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford 2007. Grade=Amazing. A little more serious SB with some oak aging that lends more melon, lemon meringue, peach and fig notes, some hints of nutmeg and vanilla bean, and a splash of creamy oak. Beautiful.

Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2007. Grade=Amazing. Full-bodied and luxurious notes of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, some cocoa, vanilla and cinnamon, intermingling with a lot of lush, velvety tannins, spicy oak and slight tobacco and dark chocolate.

Michael has stuck to his guns and specialized in Cab and SB, foregoing the inclinations his neighbors have to make other varietals. He does what he does, and does it very well. The proof, as it has been for as long as I’ve known him, resides in the bottle.

Our good friend/maniac/SWS-Crown rep Dr. Gonzo came in Wednesday with a few new things from Cupcake Vineyard and Fish Eye:

Cupcake Pinot Grigio Trentino 2009. Grade=Average. There’s nothing wrong with this PG: it’s light, lemony, and shows some bright acidity and minerality. Only problem is that the amount of PGs in this price point are staggering.

Cupcake Riesling Mosel Valley 2009. Grade=Average. A nice, semi-dry Mosel Riesling with no flaws at all. Peaches, apricots and Rainer cherries with wet stones and well-balanced acidity.

Fish Eye Pinot Noir South Eastern Australia 2009. Grade=Average. Splashy cherry cola flavors and a hint of spice make this a decent, inexpensive quaffer.

Cupcake Shiraz Barossa Valley 2008. Grade=Outstanding. This one really surprised me – medium-bodied with jammy blueberries and rhubarb pie, a bit of tapenade and some black raspberry compote. Touches of black and white pepper, cinnamon and clove make for a fairly complex value red.